January, 2003
ESAB
(stands for Elektriska Svetsnings-Aktiebolaget) started
out in Sweden in 1904, so they are by no means new to
the welding/plasma cutting world. They have been
in the US for some years and produce a high quality
product. They are a true world company.
Follow along as I review the ESAB PowerCut 1125 plasma
cutter. For those of you who have not heard about
plasma cutting, or have heard of it but do not know what
it is. Here is a brief description.
Most
everyone knows of the three most common states of
matter: solid, liquid, and gas. The little talked
about fourth state of matter is Plasma. To give an
example, water in its natural state is in liquid form,
when frozen (ice) it's in the solid state, boil water
(steam) and you have the gas state. Super heat it
and you have Plasma. Without getting into the
super technical terms, plasma cutting was discovered by
Union Carbide in the 1950's while they were
experimenting with TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas, a.k.a.
Heliarc) welding. Plasma cutting started seeing
commercial use for the first time in the 1960's.
It originally was very expensive and you saw little or
no home usage. After years of refinement and
technological advancement the price has dropped
dramatically and units are now much more affordable and
they are showing up more and more in small shops and
home hobby shops at a record rate.
Plasma
cutters will cut any metal that will conduct
electricity. Steel, stainless steel, aluminum,
titanium, copper, brass etc. With the right
contact tip and electrode, you can not only cut,
but plasma gouge as well. This means you can gouge
out a weld or a rivet with little or no (depending on
your skill) damage to the surrounding parts. This
is an awesome time saver when having to remove parts
that are had to get at with a hand or air grinder.
Cutting mild steel (as stated above) is like a hot knife
through butter. Plasma has several advantages over
Oxy/Acetylene, there are no flammable gas's involved in
the cutting process, it is a cleaner cut with less or no
dross (again depending on your skill and the machine
settings). It will cut any metal that conducts
electricity (oxy/acetylene only cuts steel). There
is no pre-heating to red hot before you can cut, and the
heated zone is more localized for less impact on the
surrounding metal.
Now
you ask, so what does the plasma cutter require to cut?
Two key things: Electricity and good, clean dry
compressed air. The air can be supplied from an
air compressor or from high pressure compressed air tanks. There
are also some plasma cutters that come with their own on
board air compressor so all you have to do is plug it in
(these are usually limited to cutting 3/16" or
thinner material). There are some consumables involved, the most
common ones are electrodes and the nozzle. These
are made of closely machined copper and due to the high
heat the plasma process works at, they get worn down
(actually kind of a melted pit) and have to be replaced
every so often.
Now
that you have a little better understanding of what
Plasma Cutting is, take a look at what the ESAB PowerCut
1125 can do. I obtained a PowerCut
1125, and the
following optional accessories for it (torch wrap and
kit holder part number 0558003013, wheel kit part
number 0558003014, torch guide kit part number
604608, and the plasma flow measuring kit part
number 19765 as well as some spare
consumables). The PowerCut 1125 comes with the new
PT-32 torch. You can get a 25 foot or 50 foot long
manual cut torch in either one of the two voltage ranges
that the machine comes in (208/230 volt
or 460 volt). The PT-32 torch is newly designed,
it has two activation buttons, one on the front and one
on the back. This gives a lot of convenience and
cutting comfort, in addition to this, the consumables
last longer helping out with the costs of cutting.
I got the model with the 25 foot long torch in the
200/230 volt range. The unit is set up to run at
230 volt from the factory, it also comes with a pre
wired and installed 3 prong plug. If you need to
run it off of 200 volt input, you need to remove a panel
and change a few jumper wires. The unit will also
auto adapt to a 15 volt +/- voltage difference.
